Blue Zaire Moba Frontosa

Remarks:   Blue Zaire Moba frontosa are from the southern end of Lake Tanganyika and are actually not a true frontosa in a taxonomic sense. This is because they have the scientific name of Cyphotilapia gibberosa instead of Cyphotilapia frontosa. Many hobbyists have noted this species does not get as big of a hump as true frontosas, but the trade off is their beautiful color. These frontosa are the most desirable within the hobby due to the fact they get the deepest blue coloration of all the frontosa types. Sometimes this color is so intense it could even be considered violet. Blue Zaire Moba frontosa can be told apart from the Mpimbwe blue frontosa by the how their color is more intense and how their "mask" extends down further past their eyes.

  Frontosa are an extremely iconic and desirable Tanganyikan cichlid within the fish keeping hobby. Before they were commonly captive bred, it was very difficult to obtain one of these fish, let alone a healthy specimen, as they typically are found at great depths in the lake where little sunlight reaches. This meant that wild caught fish commonly got decompression sickness when being brought to the surface too quickly. At these depths, they hunt smaller, open-water fish species such as Cyprichromis and feed on algae growing on rocks when they wander to shallower sections. 

  Contrary to most large cichlids, frontosa are actually very social and travel in large schools of hundreds of individuals in the depths of Lake Tanganyika. They form a social hierarchy with more dominant males growing larger and developing a large nuchal hump on their head to impress females. Females and lesser dominant males also will get a nuchal hump as they grow, but nowhere near as large as a dominant male's. There is great variation among the different localities and varieties of frontosa, but what is common amongst them is their beautiful white or silver bodies tinged with a striking blue color and adorned with nicely contrasting black markings. The differences in these black markings is typically a good way to to differentiate between them.

  As there isn't much structure for their fry to hide from predators in after they hatch, frontosa take mouth brooding to the next level. The female will actually keep the fry in her mouth until they are fully independent, unlike other mouth brooders who keep their fry outside their mouth a majority of the time once they are free swimming. To feed her young after they have absorbed their yolk sack, the female will seek out tiny foods to take into her mouth for the fry feed on, even carefully chewing larger foods to break it down for them. For this reason, feeding lots of small foods such as moina or baby brine shrimp can actually help trigger spawning in captive frontosa, even if the adults do not eat it. 

  These days, almost all frontosa in the hobby are captive bred and a bit hardier than their wild counterparts. However, they still require a proper set up and correct water parameters to live long, healthy, and happy lives. As they are an open water species, they need lots of swimming space with a minimum of 150 gallons for a single fish and 250 gallons or more for a pair or small group. Frontosa, while being omnivores, react poorly to animal meat as they can't digest it properly so their protein should come from fish or invertebrate based foods. Vegetable/algae based foods are also necessary to promote healthy digestion. All foods fed to frontosa should be of the sinking variety as their bodies will not be able to expel any swallowed air when trying to eat floating foods. 

  Frontosa are known as gentle giants, typically being docile with fish that do not look like them and are not small enough to swallow, except when spawning during which they can be territorial. They actually can be rather shy and timid so they should not be housed with aggressive species like mbunas, haps, peacocks, or Central American cichlids as they are very likely to be bullied despite their size. Frontosa also grow very slowly so it is important to make sure their tank mates do not outgrow them. It will help these fish feel comfortable if lighting is dim as bright lights stress them out. Due to their size, dietary requirements, and intolerance for poor water quality, frontosa are not recommended as beginner fish. However, if the more experienced keeper provides these incredible fish with the right conditions, they can be rewarded with a very personable, elegant, showstopper of an addition to their aquarium.